Kozy Heat Bayport 41

A fireplace insert is a unit that’s is designed to be placed into an existing true masonry fireplace. Examples of this would be a chimney made from brick and mortar, poured concrete, or masonry block, typically lined with a terracotta sleeve. Fireplace inserts are exhausted by a flexible liner that runs the whole length of the chimney inside of the terracotta sleeve.

“Zero Clearance” fireplace is a self-contained steel box that allows you to forgo the building of a masonry fireplace and instead simply requires a wooden chase to be built around it. These are great options for new construction homes, or remodels without the large cost of a full masonry chimney. Zero clearance fireplaces are exhausted by a metal vent that runs through the chase.

Our stoves and fireplaces are heater rated, made in North America, Norway, and Denmark, and are Byler’s approved before they are marketed to our customers. We do not speak negatively and slander other shops or manufacturers but would rather gain trust by honesty, excellence, and professionalism. Customer feedback, whether negative or positive, is important to us.

Open fireplaces are extremely inefficient and are mostly for looks. There are custom door/screen options to help with these concerns. More efficient fireplace inserts in wood, gas, or pellet are great options as well.

Yes, Our installers are NFI certified and employees of Byler’s Stove Shoppe. NFI INFO (National Fireplace Industry)

Yes, we have trained service technicians. Wood, pellet and gas.

Byler’s has been in operation since 1974.

Yes, we do offer financing options. Interest free same as cash financing is available. Please call for details.

There are many variables in determining install costs. Unit cost, venting, hearth pad, stone, permits, mileage, and labor all factor into the price of installation. Typically an in-home consultation will need to be done to determine details of your specific installation. We charge $100.00 for the in-home consultation that is refunded upon installation. If we are installing gas logs, a fireplace insert, or wood stove into an existing masonry chimney, a level 2 inspection is performed for safety/code/liability reasons.

Manufacturers recommend a moisture content less than 20%. The best way to test is to split a piece and put a moisture meter in the center of the freshly split piece and take a reading. If you test the ends only, it may read dryer than the center which is not an accurate determination. Poorly seasoned (wet) wood can create dangerous situations like chimney fires and blockages that cause excess smoke coming into the living space. Also, a lot of energy is wasted boiling the water out of wet wood which prevents combustion levels to reach optimal burn potential. The stove is sometimes blamed for poor performance when the true culprit is the firewood quality. Another symptoms of poor wood quality is excessive glass sooting. It is normal on an overnight burn when set to a lower draft to get a certain amount of soot on the glass; however, some of it should clear when fired to a higher burn rate unless the wood is poor quality. While some modern stoves have an “air wash” system to help keep the glass clear, it is unreasonable to expect glass on a wood burning appliance to remain 100% clear all of the time. Cleaning the door glass is part of regular maintenance.

Fireplace/wood stove venting operates on a “draft” principle. (heated air in venting being warmer than outside air)

Check for blockages in venting. (Often poorly seasoned firewood is one of the causes if the unit burned well for a period of time and gradually got worse.) Poorly seasoned wood is the problem in most cases. Even if the chimney is not yet blocked, poorly seasoned wood will smolder and never quite reach it’s combustion potential due to wasting combustive energy boiling the moisture out of the wood. Stoves rated for 2000 sq ft will barely heat 1200 sq ft if your wood is above 20% moisture content. We have dealt with this scenario many times. Most manufacturers recommend 2 year seasoned firewood. (split and stored out of the weather)(tarping wood over bare ground is not acceptable as moisture migrates back into the wood.)

Firewood needs to be seasoned off of the ground with the top covered and sides open to allow cross ventilation.

This picture is an example of dangerous wet wood creosote buildup scenario. THIS IS A CHIMNEY FIRE IN THE MAKING!

• If the problem is intermittent and the chimney/venting is clear, weather and swirling winds, terrain, trees, and roof line funnels created by odd/multiple roof structures can be an issue. Sometimes extending the chimney or different venting cap can help. In rare cases, the problem is chronic and can’t be totally eliminated but can be reduced.
• Creating a “flash fire” with crumpled dry newspaper in the stove at startup can aid in creating better draft to alleviate excessive smoking as the wood ignites.

Modern homes can be very airtight not allowing air to be pulled up the venting called “negative/reverse pressure” scenarios. Wood units are more vulnerable to this as air is typically pulled from the living space. A close bathroom/kitchen exhaust fan or HVAC (heating and air conditioning) return can pull air in reverse through the venting. This scenario is very rare but can happen. There are ways to remedy this condition through outside air kits where outside air feeds the combustion chamber of the wood burning units. Gas units are not prone to this issue because outside air intake is incorporated into the gas venting.